Riding the Red River Gorge: The Dragon Returns

 

The State of Appalachia, as some people call it, is an area that encompasses West Virginia, Eastern Kentucky, and East Tennessee.  This place is a motorcycle mecca.   There are more killer Motorcycle roads than a person could ride in a lifetime.  On this trip, we explore eastern-central Kentucky.  The Red River Gorge area.  We make our basecamp at 4 Guys RV Park where we have trailered the bikes. 

On our first full day in the area, we ride the Eye of the Dragon that wraps around the Gorge, mostly comprised of Kentucky SR 715. There is a neat one-lane tunnel that you use to get to the gorge area.  This road is filled with twists and turns, ascents and descents.  It is a very technical ride.  We stop at an old homestead during the ride, and  I say to myself, "I bet they wish they had motorcycles back in the day." 

After the Gorge, we ride down to Jackson to Ride the Red.  Highway 15 is a fast four-lane road with sweeping turns and fast straightaways.  In Jackson, we have a great lunch at Sazon Mexican Restaurant.  After lunch, we ride State Road 52 over to Beattyville.  Then back home to base camp.  A fantastic first day, with the second half filled with many twisties and fast sweeping turns.   

We ride the Beattyville loop and part of the River Dragon on our second full day. Great lunch at the Bob Cat Dinner, named after the Beattyville High School Mascot. It is a great burger and shakes place. Today was a repeat of day 1, with lots of technical roads.

On day 3, we decided to do something different and took a short ride to Natural Bridges State Park. Then took the sky lift (ski chair lift) to the top of the ridge where the Natural Bridge is located. These natural bridges are located all over the Cumberland Plateau and the Appalachian Mountains. This is the largest one we have ever seen. Neat rock passage to the bottom of the bridge.

It was our final day of riding.  The best day yet, we rode KY HWY 28, The River Dragon, down to Hazard.  Then KY HWY 30, The Hornets Nest, back to the Mountain Parkway. Again, these are excellent technical motorcycle roads with no traffic and some views that take your breath away.  On the way, we stop at the Log Cabin Cathedral, a large church built like a log cabin. Pretty impressive.

In Hazard, we had some, so, so barbecue.  It was not bad, but not great.  I'm a BBQ snob, with the ultimate standard of Jack's BBQ in Nashville. However, we have had BBQ in Texas that was just as good, and South Carolina BBQ is to die for, but in many ways, it is not authentic BBQ except for the pulled pork.

While in Kentucky, you will see this God Awful blue everywhere, it's the University of Kentucky colors, and the whole state has adopted it, sad to say. It's all good, though. It was a great week of riding its always sad when you have to leave, but it's another adventure under our belt and a great taste of the State of Appalachia.

Some Motorcycle Rides in Appalachia

Tennessee Lost Highways: A Trip to Rodgersville

On a Road Never Riden

Well, it's been a great week at Cumberland Gap; tomorrow, we leave this riders mecca.  First, one last ride.   We head south to an area of Tennessee I like to call the Tennessee Lost Highways.  To me, these are some of the greatest unknown motorcycle roads in the nation.  There are three mountain ridges cut by glaciers thousands of years ago.  These ridges separate Virginia from Tennessee.  This is where the Tennessee Lost Highways are at their best.

Today it was all about riding; TN 33 to Sneadsville, then TN 66 to Rogersville.  Then TN 70 over 3 mountain ridges to Jonesville VA. Then back to the Gap.  We have had a lot of rain this year, which has caused some slides on the mountain.  Luckily, they were fixed during the summer, so it's fresh pavement most of the way.

TN 70

TN 33 Follows Clinch River before hopping over a small ridge that brings you into Sneedville.  This is a fun road with lots of twists and turns with great views of the River and Ridgeline.   Once in Sneedsville, we tackle TN 66 to Rogersville; this is the meat of the ride cresting 2 mountain ridges with tight twisting turns; this road was built for motorcycles. 

Clinch River Valley

After we get to Rogersville, it's lunch at Taste of Chicago for some genuine Chi-Town Dogs. Rogersville is the second oldest town in TN, settled in 1775 by the Grandparents of Davey Crocket.  Which was purchased by Joseph Rodgers, who established the town. 

After lunch, it's time to ride the ridges to Jonesboro, Virginia, then back to the Gap.  TN 70 then VA 70 to Jonesboro scales 3 mountain ridges.  The road narrows to a single lane when entering Virginia, but it quickly widens again.  Some great accents and decent with great views.  This road is highly recommended. 

Rodgersville

Well, all good things must come to an end.  Time to make that trek back to Clarksville, Tennessee, and dream of the day when we can come back to ride the Tennessee Lost Highways again.  So if you're tired of riding the Tail of the Dragon every year.  Try somewhere new come to the Tennessee Lost Highways. 

 

The Dragon Slayer: A Ride Deep into Coal Country

While in Pikeville a couple of days ago, we picked up a map of Appalachia's motorcycle rides.  This is no small area.  Appalachia stretches from Northern Tennessee through eastern Kentucky as far east as Ohio and north as southern Pennsylvania.  Needless to say, there are a lot of square miles and a lot of different motorcycle rides. 

Today we are headed north on US 119; this road is God's gift to Motorcycle Riders. After making the turn on KY 160, wet stopped in Lynch, Kentucky, at an old Coal Mine, part of the National Mining Museum. We are cold, so some coffee and to warm up was right on time. The Lamp House Coffee Shop was the right place at the right time. So after a cup and a walk around the old train station, we are on our way.

Today our main goal is to ride the Dragon Slayer KY 160 from Lynch, Kentucky to Big Stone Gap, Virginia. This runs up and over Black Mountain, the highest point in Kentucky. This road is very challenging because of the change in elevation and tight winding curves. This ride reminds me of the Tail of the Dragon with better views. We stop at the top of Black Mountain for pictures and a great view.

Once off the Mountian, we stop in the picturesque town of Big Stone Gap for lunch. This town that sits in the Powell River Valley is a gateway to Appalachia. After a great lunch at Curklins, a fun place with outdoor seating, it serves the regular bar fare with various lunch specials. We plan our way back to the gap.

We decide to head back up the mountain on US Highway 421 from Pennington Gap, VA, to Harlen, Ky. This is a much different road with long sweeping turns on an excellent 4 lane highway. Once in Harlen, it's back down US 119 to the gap. It was a good day. Tomorrow is our last we plan to go out with a blast.

Tennessee Lost Highways: The Two Headed Dragon

We are in Cumberland Gap to ride some of these Appalachian motorcycle roads for a week. This area contains some of the country's best motorcycle roads in Nation.  Most of these roads are unknown and unspoiled by the lack of commercialization. 

It's day 2, and since we had such a long day yesterday up to Pikeville, we decide to take a shorter ride. This ride did not disappoint.  Called the Two-Headed Dragon, Kentucky 74, which turns into Tennessee 90, is one of America's great motorcycles roads.  This road will make your heart stop. Very unique because it climbs in and out of valleys with no traffic lights or urban obstructions. 

As you climb, the two mountain passes the overlooks will take your breath away.  There's plenty of tight twisting turns, and in the valleys, long, fast sweeping turns with some straightaways.  Keep alert because a set of hairpin turns are right around the corner. 

Once we turn south on US 25W, we get more of the same roads until we get to La Follette, where we stop for lunch.  After eating some good Mexican food, we make our way back to the Gap.  We follow TN 63, which follows the base of the Mountain Ridge.  The views with the sunny fall day and the changing leaves are quite the sight.  It's a good day.   

Once we get back to the Gap, we reflect on the ride and the fall colors.  It is hard to imagine anything better, and who would choose the Tail of the Dragon over this?  This is truly one of Tennessee's Lost Highways.  Tomorrow we have another ride planned with the words Dragon in it.  It is time to be the Slayer of the Dragon. 

Cumberland Gap: The Run to Pikeville Kentucky (Hatfields and McCoys)

We are in Cumberland Gap to ride some of these Appalachian motorcycle roads for a week.  As it's called, the Gap is a mountain pass that lies at the southern end of Appalachia, right at the Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia border.  

Appalachia from here stretches north through Kentucky and West Virginia; this area contains some of the country's best motorcycle roads.  Most of these roads are unknown and unspoiled by crowds.  There are more mountain roads here than a man could ride in a lifetime.  

If you're used to going to the Maggie Valley every year to ride the Tail Dragon and the Cherohalo Skyway, I suggest that you change it up and head to Appalachia.  You won't be disappointed by these undiscovered roads.

Our first ride is to Pikeville, home of the Hatfields and McCoys feud.  We had already been to see these sites, so this ride was all about checking the sales rack at Mineshaft Harley Davidson. Which was a jackpot; pick up a nice jack and sweatshirt. Our stop for lunch was in Jonesville at A Better Burger.  It was one of the best burgers that we have had in a long while.  

The highlight of this ride is passing over the mountain ridge on US 119.  This road separates Appalachia from the Shenandoah Valley. The ride up the ridge has all the twisting turns and scenic views a motorcycle rider could ever want. We stop close to the top and take it all in.  

As we travel along US 119 after climbing the ridge, you are flying along a mountain river.  There is a bridge every half mile, or so each one named after a soldier killed in the last decade's middle eastern wars.  As I cross these bridges, I realize as a former soldier that this could have been me.  To honor these fallen soldiers, we must live for them and not waste a minute. 

It's going to be a great week, filled with great rides and the scenic roads that they are on.